Product: Mene & Moy
Using a variety of products from the range, the doctor can tailor make a treatment regime for the clients individual needs. Homecare products are available to enhance any clinic treatments the client may have.

Product: Innovative Concept Peel
Created specifically for skin pigmentation and sensitive skin, the ICP also helps for sun-damaged skin, wrinkles, acne and uneven skin tone. It is based on retinoic acid (vitamin A) and de-pigmenting agents and requires no skin preparation. The peel also comes with all the homecare products that you may need.
Results are comparable to medium-depth acid peel but without the don time and risks. It is a one-off peel with no weeping or scaling skin, a real bonus for clients. However you will have to go home with a yellow face mask on the day of treatment, a small price to pay for the results. After effects include a day or two of redness followed by a day or two of pinkness and a day of gentle peeling.

Product: Glycolic Acid Peels
Jan Marini is a well known and established skin care company and has been making AHA fruit acid peels from the start. Glycolic acid gently loosens the cellular cement of the superficial skin payer, therefore giving a gentle peel and improving minor blemishes and fine lines. Skin will look brighter, smoother and clearer after a few peels but skin preparation is needed for 2 weeks prior to your first peel. There are minimal side effects and little downtime with this gentle but effective peel.

Product: Dermaceutics
A range of peels with increasing strength for various uses, starting with mild glycolic to stronger TCA peels, this range covers most aspects of peels and also provides a good homecare range to enhance results. The Mask peel is a mild glycolic for greasy acne skin and large pores which reduces sedum in the skin. Milk peel is a glycolic/lactic/salicylic acid peel to deal with sun-damage and wrinkles. Medium TCA based peels are Spot peel and Cosmo peel, great for acne and sun-damage for more dramatic results but with more downtime.

Cosmeceuticals is a new word to describe facial lotions and potions that possess both cosmetic and pharmaceutical properties, which means that the active ingredient is in a higher concentration than a normal cream but the product can still be bought over the counter without a prescription.

Although primarily used for anti-ageing treatments, they are now marketed for anti-acne, anti-cellulite and skin-lightening.

There are so many products now available, I thought I would try out one of them against an anti wrinkle cream.

I compared Jan Marini Bioglycolic Daily Moisturiser Cream with Freeze 24/7 Anti Wrinkle Cream

Jan Marini Bioglycolic Daily Moisturiser Cream
Price £55 for 56g pot
Available at some Beauty Salons and also the Internet
Active ingredient in Jan Marini is glycolic acid and ammonium glycolate. An AHA fruit acid used to increase cell turnover and improve fine lines and complexion.

The cream is white and has no smell. It is quite thick in the pot but very easy to apply Only a small amount need be used, the size of a pea to target areas. Once applied to the skin in spreads easily with no flaking or clumping. It does feel quite tingly on the skin especially around the eye area, in some places it stung a bit too much. You also need to use sun protection with this cream as it does make the skin sun-sensitive.
Results-It does not make any immediate difference to the lines and wrinkles but after using it for a few days I noticed my skin felt firmer and looked brighter and smoother, finer lines appeared softer but deeper lines were about the same really. I continued to use the cream for 2 weeks, after which the eye area became a bit dry so I stopped using it to give my skin a break.
Conclusion: A easy to use cream that does improve the skin’s appearance long term but probably best used alternate days and with care during sunny times of the year. Good value for money as it does last ages as only a small amount needed and it doesn’t need to be used every day.

Freeze 24/7 Anti Wrinkle Cream
Price £65 for 30g pot
Available at Space NK website
Active ingredient in Freeze 24/7 is called GABA (Gamma Amino Butyric Acid) a naturally occurring agent that works as a topical muscle relaxant.

It claims to visibly reduce the appearance of wrinkle in minutes and last all day. It can only be used on the face and is supposed to diminish the appearance of lines on your forehead, around the eyes and lips.
The cream is white and smells very lightly of mint. It is quite thick and fiddly to apply. You have to cleanse and dry the skin first and then apply only a very small pea-sized amount onto the facial area that needs attention i.e.: eyes or forehead or lip. Only use a very small amount and massage very gently into the skin. If too much is used then the cream will clump and flake on the skin. Once the cream has been absorbed then you can apply your normal moisturiser and makeup.
Results- it feels cool on the skin at first which settles after a while. However I must say the lines and wrinkles did seem to disappear and the skin felt tighter and looked brighter. However as the day wore on especially towards dinner time around 8 or 9pm I noticed my skin was back to normal again. I used the cream for 2 weeks.
Conclusion: A good cream which does help wrinkles but not all day like the blurb says. It is very expensive and very fiddly to apply. Not really for every day use unless you get up an hour early just to do your face! Best reserved for special occasions.

Do these anti-wrinkle creams work?
Some research suggests that wrinkle creams contain ingredients that may improve wrinkles. But many of these ingredients haven’t undergone scientific research to prove this benefit.

The effectiveness of anti-wrinkle creams depends in part on the active ingredient or ingredients. If you’re looking for a face-lift in a bottle, you can’t buy it over the counter. Some cream may slightly improve the appearance of your skin, depending on how long you use the product and the amount and type of the active ingredient in the wrinkle cream.

Some of the active ingredients used are:

Retinol. Retinol is a vitamin A compound and is the first antioxidant to be widely used in anti- wrinkle creams. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles. Retinol is less potent than the vitamin A derivative tretinoin, a prescription-only cream, is approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for treating wrinkles.

How effective is tretinoin cream? A study of 251 people, aged 29-50 years, with sun-damaged skin showed that tretinoin cream used once a day for 6 months (Archives of Dermatology 1991) produced some type of improvement in 79%. It faded age spots by 37% and improved wrinkles by 27.1% (measured by taking silicone impressions of the skin).

Coenzyme Q10.Coenzyme Q10 is a nutrient that helps regulate energy production in cells. Some studies have shown reduction in fine wrinkles around the eyes with no side effects. Application before sun exposure may protect against sun damage.

… part 2 of the Guide to Anti-Wrinkle Creams in the next posting.

So what can be done?

The top treatment is botulinum toxin injections to relax the muscles and therefore soften the lines. This has the added advantage of preventing the lines from getting worse as it reduces the muscle movement.
If however, like some of my clients, you are not keen on the idea of Botox, then there are alternatives.
The IAL system (also known as mesotherapy) is a pure form of hyaluronic acid, which is injected around the eye, including underneath the eye in very small superficial dots. The hyaluronic acid is a major component of youthful skin and will help build collagen as well as improve hydration and therefore help to plump the skin and erase fine lines.
For clients that have either lost fat from under the eye or have very thin faces, this can lead to a hollow and ageing appearance to the lower eye area. Dermal fillers, such as Restylane or Hydrafill, can very effectively fill the hollows and improve the appearance of the eyes.

Combinations of the above treatments may be recommended in some cases to give the best cosmetic result. It is always worth seeking advice as there are many effective treatments out there that don’t mean you have to resort to the surgeon’s knife.

In addition to treatment already mentioned an excellent option at this age is Sculptra.

This is a poly-lactic acid filler used for facial reconstruction and contouring. It is injected into the deep dermal layer where over time it will boost the bodies own collagen production. Cheeks hollows and jowls will therefore be plumped out and lifted.

Another possibility which can really enhance the cheek area is Sub-Q, a thick hyaluronic acid filler which is injected under the cheek pouches to give you back your high cheek bones and restore the contours of your face to more youthful proportions.

Good skincare and sun block is a must at the age. However there is a lot you can do before you book in to see the surgeon.

As in your thirties glycolic peels and botulinum injections will really help boost the skins complexion and also soften the expression lines. Peels can be used on the neck and décolleté areas also. To smooth and plump out the lower face lines, hyaluronic acid dermal fillers can give a great instant yet natural looking lift and make a real difference to your appearance.

Treatments to consider in your 30s would be glycolic peels, to encourage skin cell turnover, tighten pores and boost the skin’s elastin and collagen. In addition this is a good age to consider botulinum injections to soften movement around the eyes and frown areas, therefore minimise wrinkles and importantly prevent more lines from forming.

When you’re in your 20s, it is time to use an SPF30 sunscreen and lay down the foundations for maintaining beautiful skin for the rest of your life.